Before Britomart

1844, Looking east from Smales Point across Commercial Bay towards Point Britomart, showing Shortland Street (diagonally through centre) Fort Britomart and Saint Paul’s Church (on the skyline) Fort Street along the foreshore and canoes on the beach

The Britomart area was originally part of the Waitemata Harbour, a seabed in the middle of Commercial Bay. The Britomart area was a large reach of water between Britomart Point and the Hobson Street ridge. Auckland’s foreshore continued along today’s Britomart Place, Fort Street and Fanshaw Street. The most prominent coastal feature on the site was Point Britomart, which reached far out into the harbour along what is now Britomart Place.

The precinct hosts numerous Maori heritage sites that date to the 17th and 18th century. The Britomart site was an abundant resource for the Auckland isthmus and many battles were waged for its control. A Maori Pa (meeting house) once stood on Britomart Point and overlooked the harbour. Te Rerenga Ora Iti (Leap Of The Few Survivors) is one such name that commemorates 2 battles fought between Ngati Whatua and others in both the 17 th and 18 th centuries, the most recent being 1822. Te Rou Kai (The Food Gathering) refers to a pipi bank formerly located between Point Britomart and the mouth of the Wai Horotiu stream, which sustained the nearby Horotiu Papakainga or village.

The Britomart Name

1840-1849, Looking south-west from the water, showing Mechanics Bay (left) Official Bay (left) Point Britomart (right of centre) Commercial Bay (right)

Britomart is a word that is woven into British history and early New Zealand colonialism.

HMS BRITOMART was a brig-sloop, one of 101 vessels of the Cherokee class, built at Portsmouth in 1820. The ship was 237 tons, armed with 10 guns and was sold in Singapore in 1843. Britomart was the name given to the daughter of King Ryence of Wales and she has been described as the impersonation of saintly chastity and purity of mind (1500). The word Britomart comes from a mythological Cretan Goddess Britomartis.

In command of HMS BRITOMART in 1840 was Commander Owen Stanley, the eldest son of the Bishop of Norwich. Born in 1811, he had entered the Royal Navy in August 1824 and with the rank of Lieutenant was appointed in command of the vessel on 21 December 1837, relinquishing command on 27 April 1843. He was promoted to the rank of Commander in 1839 and died in Australia, while in command of another surveying vessel, HMS RATTLESNAKE, in 1850.

HMS BRITOMART was one of several ships engaged in a major hydrographical survey project directed by the Admiralty. In June 1840 the ship departed Sydney, arriving in the Bay of Islands on 2 July. Some surveying was carried out at the entrance to the Bay before Commander Stanley was despatched to Akaroa in order to forestall any potential disturbances consequent upon the arrival of French colonists. Having sailed from the Bay of Islands on 23 July, bad weather lengthened the voyage south and it was not until 10 August that HMS BRITOMART arrived at Akaroa. After an uneventful stay the ship returned to the North Island.

After signing of the Treaty of Waitangi Governor Hobson began the search for a suitable site for the capital of the new colony and in March decided that the southern side of the Waitemata Harbour was the best available. HMS HERALD completed the first survey of Auckland Harbour in February 1840, establishing many of Auckland’s harbour names. This chart named one of the points on the northern shore “Observation Point”, however this was later changed to “Stanley Point” by the Hobson’s Surveyor General, Felton Mathew, after the Captain of HMS BRITOMART.

On 18 September 1840 Captain Hobson and his party landed at Britomart Point, where the British Flag was raised and a gun salute fired. HMS BRITOMART arrived in October and the officers were employed on a detailed survey of the Waitemata. It was from this survey that the ship’s name was bestowed on Britomart Point. In respect of what is now Stanley Point, Captain Stanley simply annotated it “Second Point”.

In 1841 Auckland was chosen as the Capital of New Zealand, its status as capital, together with its natural physical amenities, undoubtedly helped the city grow in trade, shipping, population and commercial influence, and added to its importance as a major New Zealand city.

Fort Britomart

1869, an artists impression of Fort Britomart, with the ships H.M.S. Blanche, Challenger, Virago, Charybdis moored in the harbour

1860’s, Interior view, showing stone and wooden buildings, guns and cannon balls, also men in military and civilian dress

By January 1841, New Zealand’s first British fort was established on Point Britomart, on land previously occupied by a Maori pa. The Fort continued to be developed between the 1840’s and 1850’s. The Fort was established to control Auckland’s harbour entrance and bring order to the growing settlement. In the 1860’s during the New Zealand Wars, the barracks on Britomart Point were used to house 10,000 troops.

Reclamation

Aucklands commercial centre was established along Queen Street, and along the waterfront which was then defined by present day Fort Street. The physical limitations imposed by the Queen Street valley prevented growth of the CBD, which was solved in the 1860’s by reclamation of the harbour.

The reclaimed land was part of a staged reclamation scheme undertaken by the Auckland Harbour Board (AHB). Although the Government began the reclamation, the work was taken over by a private contractor and completed in 1883.

Looking south-east from the reclamation between Custom Street East and Quay Street East, showing Point Britomart being demolished as far as Emily Place, Saint Paul’s Church (centre) Princess Street with the Northern Club (to the right) with premises of A.Hines and Co, Kaurigum merchants, and Reid & Gray agricultural implement manufacturers

A stone retaining wall was erected to define the outer limit of the reclamation, and fill was obtained from Point Britomart and across Official Bay to the east. The combined reclamation altered the appearance of the foreshore considerably and evidently not to the satisfaction of all observers:

"The eastern waterfront with its open bays and towering promontories drowned in the beautiful green of the massive pohutukawas, has changed beyond recognition and the waters of the Waitemata now lap the drab stone walls skirting the reclamation . . ."

The reclamation allowed for deeper moorings for ships and the continuation of rail beyond Britomart Point to the Queen Street Station.

Historic Buildings

2002, View from Quay Street looking south-west towards Northern Steamship Co. Ltd. building (right) Northern Steamship Co. Ltd annexe building (centre) and Union Fish Co. building (left) with the Skytower in the far background

2002, View from Custom Street East looking north-east towards Australis House (left) and A.H. Nathan Building

In 1882 the reclaimed land on the Britomart site became available for sale.

Warehouses and stores were erected in Custom Street to provide storage, distribution and the export and import of goods servicing a variety of businesses. The area became the principal focus of warehousing and trade in the city.

The following buildings are registered in the Auckland City Operative District Plan (Central Area) as historic buildings:

The Northern Steamship Company was established on Thursday 12th May 1881. They opened the Northern Steamship Co. Building, 120-124 Quay Street on the 19th May 1899. The building cost £6,000 to construct and provided office space and stores. A third level to the building was added in 1921, providing office space and a laundry.

The Nathan Family was one of the early merchant settler families in New Zealand establishing their operation in the Bay of Islands. Arthur Hyam Nathan successfully bid at auction for the land at 40-46 Custom Street, and the A.H.Nathan Building was erected in 1903. The business sold a range of goods such as shirts, foodstuffs, clothing, guns and many other items of general merchandise. The business continued to expand, supplying coal to the American Naval flotilla and became the agents for the Columbia Gramophone Company. A new street façade was later added to the building to disguise the prosaic cart dock entrance.

Andrew Jack Entrican arrived in New Zealand in 1880 from the north of Ireland. Andrew and Brother James established Messrs A.J. Entrican & Company and successfully bid at auction for the land at 36-38 Custom Street. The Australis House was erected in 1904 at a cost of £10,000. This building operated as a large warehouse for goods and produce, and as a shop front for the company’s customers. Andrew Entrican served several terms as a City Councillor and was Auckland Deputy Mayor for 21 Years.

2002, (left) Wharf Police Station Building, Attrens House (centre), Quay Building (right) along Quay Street

2000, looking North West along Custom Street East, Excelsior House (left), Stanbeth House (centre), Masonic House / Buckland Building (right)

MSAS Building, view from Quay Street.

2000, View from Custom Street East looking North West towards Levy Building (right), Old Sofrana House (centre) and Barrington Building (left)

Kiwi Tavern, view from Britomart Place

Union Fish Company Building , 116 Quay Street.

Wharf Police Station Building , 102 Quay Street

The following buildings are other old buildings established on the Britomart site:

Barrington Building , 10 Custom Street

Old Sofrana House, 14 Custom Street

Levy Building , 20 Custom Street

Excelsior House, 22 Custom Street

Stanbeth House, 26 Custom Street

Masonic House / Buckland Building, 30 Custom Street

Britomart Service Station, 48 Custom Street

Hipkins & Coutts Building , 50 Custom Street

Charter House, 54 Custom Street

Kiwi Tavern, 3 Britomart Place

MSAS Building , 130 Quay Street

Seafarers Centre, 110 Quay Street

Quay Building , 106 Quay Street

Attrens House, 104 Quay Street

Queen Street Railway Station

1908, Queen Street Station on Galway Street

1908, View of Queen Street Station looking from Tyler Street to Queen Street

On the 30 November 1885 a Railway Station opened on Queen Street. The Queen Street Station replaced the small building that had been moved from the Mechanics Bay side of the former Britomart Point. Queen Street Station attracted little architectural recognition in the City, partly because of its obscure location and small-scale construction.

The Queen Street Station was a two storey brick building with a central tower and despite its name did not front Queen Street.

With the increased services the old arrival platform was demolished, and two new island platforms with shelters put into place, giving a total of six platform faces, including the old dock platform and main departure platform.

1908, View of Queen Street Railway Station (centre), on either side of the station is Tyler Street (left) and Galway Street (right) and Queen Street (below)

1908, View of lower Queen Street, entrance to the Station (far left) and Trams on Queen Street

Chief Post Office

The decision to build the Chief Post Office (CPO) in 1909 on land taken by the Government from the Railways department was to have dire consequences for the future of passenger rail transport in Auckland.

In 1901 the General Manager of the Railways Department suggested:

"that the land between Auckland Station platform and Queen Street be utilised by the erection of a public building for centralising the various public offices of the City".

The Railway Chief Engineer said in 1904:

". . . the land referred to is the portion of the passenger yard and approach yards fronting Queen Street. It is entirely impossible to consider giving up any portion of it. The existing accommodation is even now insufficient and no instalment could be contemplated. It is quite likely that in future it may be necessary to build a new Railway Station on the Queen Street frontage."

Original design of the Auckland Chief Post Office 1907-08

Construction commences on the Chief Post Office between Queen Street and the Queen Street Railway Station 1909

Chief Post Office Opens 1912, crowds gather for the official opening

Prime Minister, William F Massey, opened the CPO on the 20 th November 1912. It was situated on railway land that obscured the Queen Street Railway Station from Queen Street. A crowd of 8,000 – 10,000 people attended the Opening ceremony, which was evidence of its significance to Aucklanders.

Minister of Public Works W. Savage said at the opening:

“the new post office was a milestone in the progress of the city . . . there was no better indication of the advancement of a city than its postal business”

The Grand CPO was built of Coromandel granite and Oamaru Stone and was the hub of the city, an important state building and meeting place. The CPO did not have enough space to sort mail and parcels, so in 1937 the Public Works department built a three- story Art Deco Annex behind the CPO. The building was designed with mail shoots running between floors and operated successfully for almost 60 years and gave thousands of people employment.

Auckland Chief Post Office 1940, looking south-east towards Queen Street

For many years the CPO was situated at the confluence of Auckland’s transport systems. The old railway station, the ferry building and the tram terminus brought thousands of people past and through the CPO each day.

Auckland ’s CPO occupied an important site not only physically but also socially and politically. On the 24 th October 1912 the first major service to be located in the CPO was Auckland’s radio wireless, on the roof of the CPO, which provided contact with ships at sea.

Ships moored on Queen Street wharf unloading goods from Great Britain and new immigrants arriving into the country. The CPO handled banking, mail, telegrams, and pension payments. There was an electoral office where ministers of Parliament conducted business in a ministerial room set aside for this purpose. The state used the building for storing extra police uniforms during World War One and installed racks for rifle storage.

Waterfront Strike 1913, view from Quay Street towards Queen Street

Decorations on the CPO for the Prince of Wales visit 1920

Watching the America’s Cup in Queen Elizabeth Square 2000

Ornamental arches standing on both sides of the CPO led to the Queen Street Railway Station. Controversy surrounded the building of the arches. Railway engineers said they would restrict traffic, Post Office officials said they added to the beauty of the CPO.

In the early 1930’s, after the completion of the Beach Road Railway Station, the railway department decided to demolish the arches. Despite appeals to the then Prime Minister from Post Office officials and the Public Works Department, a demolition contract was let for £144. The work took 3 months.

Important social events took place outside the Post Office. During the Waterfront Strike 13 th November 1913, mounted constables stood outside the CPO barring access to the wharves.

The following year World War 1 started, and men arrived by train behind the CPO and departed on ships moored on the wharves. In 1920 the Post Office was decorated in honour of the visit of the Prince of Wales.

Achilles Fleet 1940 marching up Queen Street

During World War II (WWII) crowds gathered outside to welcome the arrival of the Achilles Fleet. Every Christmas till 1970 the Post Office was decorated and crowds also gathered there to welcome in the New Year.

New Zealand ’s Post separated into three State Owned Enterprises on the 1st April 1987. Auckland’s 114 Post Offices were replaced by three district Post Offices.

In 1988 Post Bank Offices moved out of the CPO building.

For six years the CPO languished and decayed as street kids broke in and started living in the top level of the building. One cold winter’s night they lit a fire to stay warm and caused major damage throughout the top floor as the fire took hold of the building. The CPO also received significant water damage as the fire was extinguished.

The last major event to take place in front of the Post Office was in December 2000 when a big screen TV was erected outside in Queen Elizabeth Square (QE) for the lead up to and during the America’s Cup. Visitors and office workers sat on the ground in the sunshine watching events unfold and being entertained by bands and street performers. When Prada the Italian team won the Louis Vuitton Cup, they brought over a group of Italian flag wavers from a village in Italy who performed in the Square to the delight of the Public. Auckland City Council (ACC) also hosted a number of dancing-in-the-street events as part of their free summer events and many were held in QE. Dancing in the street was the last public gathering to take place before the CPO was closed for refurbishment.

Security guards were engaged to patrol the building, as pigeons became the next main occupiers, gaining access through broken windows. A display Centre was opened on the ground floor of the Old CPO building, pigeons and street people continued to come and go. Display Centre Staff would try to coax pigeons out of the building using birdseed but were not always successful, as numerous dead pigeons testified, because of the many inaccessible places they retreated to.

Leonard John Keys

Leonard John Keys owned a grocer’s shop on the corner of Clonbern and Remuera Road. He delivered groceries by horse and cart to customers in Remuera and the waterfront suburbs. He purchased a bus in 1914 to start the first bus service in the area. A garage depot was opened in St Heliers. L.J.Keys buses departed from in front of the CPO until the Britomart Bus terminal was built in the 1930’s.

LJ Keys bus drivers, LJ Keys first bus, LJ Keys second bus

Beach Road Railway Station

The ‘new’ Auckland Railway station opened in 1930 in Beach Road. Only recently has the architecture come to be better appreciated. However the grand Beach Road Railway Station was criticised for its isolation. Comment from the public news in 1932:

“It is ironic that the railways, whose network girds the nation should fail Auckland on the last kilometre, Yet it is that short, downtown connection which could put Auckland public transport back on the rails. The railway’s failure is marked by a splendid monument in Coromandel granite, Whangarei marble and New Lynn brick.”

Beach Road Railway Station, 31 st October 1940

Britomart Bus Terminal

Commuters arrive at the Britomart Bus Terminal, the information counter at the Bus Terminal

The Auckland Municipal Bus Station opened September 1937 between Commerce Street and Britomart Place. The New Zealand Herald called it “modern and well-planned.” The on-street bus terminal was located between Commerce Street, Galway Street, Britomart Place and Tyler Street. Gore Street and Britomart Place were the main entrances and exits for buses using the terminal, and Gore Street was closed to traffic. Galway Street, between Gore Street and Commerce Street was closed and a public space with trees, seats and rubbish bins was created.

Britomart Car Park

Britomart Place carpark, aerial view, shows Britomart Place (foreground), Quay Street East (right) and Custom Street (far left)

New Zealand ’s first municipal Carpark which cost £287,000 to build was opened on the Britomart site 11 th September 1958. On the first day of business, the 465 carparks were full by 10:30am and the charges were nine pence an hour.

End of an Era

View from the roof of the Former Chief Post Office towards Britomart Place, Annexe CPO (right), Britomart carpark and Britomart bus terminal (centre)

After the Railway Station was transferred from lower Queen Street to Beach Road it was criticised for its inconvenience and isolated location. New movie theatres were constructed closer to the Town Hall and as lower Queen Street became less fashionable, the area went into gradual decline. The decline continued after WWII and was assisted by the phasing-out of trams in the mid-fifties, and the decreasing reliance on Harbour ferries, after the Harbour Bridge was opened in 1959.

• ‘The Chief Post Office Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, 15 March 1990, section 2.00, p5
• ‘ Auckland – Views, 1840-1849’, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘ Auckland – Views, 1844’, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘Britomart Project, Update: October 2001, Te Rerenga Ora Iti’, Auckland City Council project update, information provided by Ngarimu Blair, Ngati Whatua o Orakei
• Information provided by Peter Dennerly, Naval Historian of the Royal New Zealand Navy Museum
• ‘The Disappearing Guns of Auckland’ by John Mitchell, Thesis 96-048,1995, The University of Auckland Library
• 1860’s, Interior view, showing stone and wooden buildings, guns and cannon balls, also men in military and civilian dress, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• 1869, an artist’s impression of Fort Britomart, with the ships H.M.S. Blanche, Challenger, Virago, Charybdis moored in the harbour, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Looking south-east from the reclamation between Custom Street East and Quay Street East, showing Point Britomart being demolished as far as Emily Place, Saint Paul’s Church (centre) Princess Street with the Northern Club (to the right) with premises of A.Hines and Co, Kauri gum merchants and Reid & Gray agricultural implement manufacturers (right), Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘The Chief Post Office Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, 15 March 1990, section 2.00, p5
• ‘The Northern Steamship Co. Ltd Building, 122 Quay Street, Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, April 1997
• ‘ A.H.Nathan Building, 42 Custom Street East, Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, April 1997
• ‘Australis House, 36 Customs Street East, Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, April 1997
• Mahoney J.D., Down at the Station: New Zealand Railway Station Revised, Dunmore Press 1996
• Queen Street Station 1908, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Mahoney J.D., Down at the Station: New Zealand Railway Station Revised, Dunmore Press 1996
• Queen Street Station 1908, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Queen Street Station 1908, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Lower Queen Street 1908, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘The Chief Post Office Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, 15 March 1990, section 2.00
• Construction commences on the Auckland Chief Post Office 1909, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘The Chief Post Office Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, 15 March 1990, section 2.00, p9-10
• Chief Post Office Opens 1912, crowds gather for the official opening, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘The Chief Post Office Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, 15 March 1990, section 2.00, p9
• Chief Post Office, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• D.C. Morris, ‘ Auckland Radio, Alpha & Omega’ September 2002, p
• Waterfront Strike 1913, view from Quay Street towards Queen Street, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Prince of Wales visit 1930, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Achilles Fleet 1940, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• Leonard John Keys Collection, photo’s provided by the Keys family
• Mahoney J.D., Down at the Station: New Zealand Railway Station Revised, Dunmore Press 1996
• Beach Road Railway Station, 31 st October 1940, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• NZ Herald, ‘Time runs out on carpark’, 24 th July 2001
• Britomart Place carpark, aerial view, Auckland Public Library Photographic Collection
• ‘The Chief Post Office Auckland, A Conservation Plan’ prepared for Auckland City Council by Salmond Architects, 15 March 1990, section 2.00, p10